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jk_anthony

Overseeding a lawn

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Guest dcsmith796

That just means spreading grass seed over existing grass. Better grass seed often has an application rate listed on the package for regular (bare ground) seeding as well as another rate for overseeding. I assume roughing up the turf to increase seed-to-soil contact will increase your germination rate (perhaps with a thatch rake, powered or otherwise?).

 

I hear thick turf grass can suppress weeds, but I wouldn't know. However, if you wish to install a dandelion/wood sorrel/nutsedge lawn alternative I'm your guy.

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It does work and now is a good time to put lawn seed down. It works in conjunction with then growing that new grass well so all available space is full of grass plants. Then that foliage casts shade on all the other seeds there. Seems like "ho can GRASS cast shade" but it does. Prevents seed germination and/or shades out the seedlings.

 

But as dcsmith hints, if you just scatter the grass seed onto an area where the soil is hard packed and/or covered with weed leaves (dead or alive) there's less chance the seed will be moist enough to sprout or survive if it does. We rake before and after overseeding. Once to ruffle what's there, once to jiggle the cast seed so it drops off of leaves into spaces first made. We don't try to remove thatch, to get to bare soil, not unless thatch is really thick. Which it ISN'T on a lawn thin enough to need overseeding.

 

Noticing as I see the reference to nutsedge and wanting to link that to the other discussion going on right now about nutsedge/nut sedge, that the Search function on this Forum seems to be case sensitive. (I have that on our list of next-time-we-get-money-to-do-program-changes, gang. Sorry we somehow missed it the first time 'round.)

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Guest dcsmith796

Hmm. And after you say? I shall try that right now! Perhaps it will give me an advantage in the simmering cold war between me and my lawn. I can't believe I had to mow in March! If I wanted to mow for more than 6 months I'd live in Florida.

 

I also yanked a thistle that was not there last fall. It was already the size of a dinner plate. Yikes.

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In addition to reseeding, I would suggest that you try to determine why the lawn needs to be reseeded. My front lawn is 25 years old and has never been reseeded. Getting your soil tested by MSU would be a good first step. With that info, a fertilizer ratio of N-P-K can be determined. Maintenance practices like mowing at three inches, leaving clippings on the lawn, watering in 1/4 inch increments every other day when needed in the summer (total 1 inch/week), and core areation in the spring or fall will go a long way towards a healthy turf.

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Overseeding of an existing lawn is a recognised essential part of annual lawn maintenance. Many older lawns were established with common type turf grasses not suited for the needs of today's homeowner.

Keep people and pets away from the newly seeded lawn until the new grass is growing.

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