Steven Nikkila

We often see spruces loose their lower limbs due to the upper limbs growing faster (usually in more sun) and shading out the lower limbs causing them to weaken and dieback. They can become susceptible to diseases too. The light situation changes as all of the trees grow so the plants light conditions are constantly changing. These spruces look thin and have probably been in part shade for awhile.

Here's three photos of a marsh marigold (Caltha palustris). Which one is your favorite?

Ahhh, spring the emerging foliage like this variegated sweet flag (Acorus 'Variegutus') and the trilling of toads.

Here are some more "Little Things' photos. No words just pics! Mother Nature does wonderful things!

More to come heading out to do just that.

It looks like there will be the need for a lot of pruning of plants damaged during the winter. Get those pruners and loppers sharpened now. You can get more information and how to sharpen pruners from our website.

We've assembled an answer team to field questions in real time on the GardenAtoZ.org Forum. If you or someone you know has a question or puzzle, Saturday, April 26 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. is a great time to go out with that smart phone, take a photo and post it on our Forum for a right-now answer. We are especially excited about this use of our Forum, and look forward to a lively get-together with our team of instructors and alumni from our Gardening School era. Spread the word, please! If you are not a Forum Member yet please become a Member so you can do these things to get an Instant-Answer: 1. Post a question 2. Attach a photo 3. Request email notification of an answer We've posted instructions in the Instant Answers folder. Janet Macunovich and Steven Nikkila, Instant-Answer team leaders

Almost a year later and still trying to think of something else. If the pines have started to open up perhaps rugosa rose could work. Still thinking...

I agree that the top damage is done by skunks going after some kind of grub. Yes, the voles had a very good year. Right now is the time to trap them to control the population.

Thanks Rudy I moved it for him. Any thoughts Margaret?

Without looking at the entire story of the trees it is hard to say what is causing the problems. There are many different types of pine and they get quite a variety of pests. Some pests only attack specific pines others more general. Drought/lack of water is a contributor to the problems but not the only cause. I'll pay special attention to the pines when I'm in the area again.

Yes it is a gall and it looks like the leaf of a tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima). Right you are Margaret most galls rarely do any significant damage.

It's difficult to ID a tree from just a leaf and no other information about the tree itself. But my guess is that it is some kind of elm. Can you supply some more information about the tree. Or photos of it. For instance what is the leaf?bud arrangement, alternate or opposite? What is the bark like? What is the shape/habit of the tree? What are the buds like? Do the leaves turn color in the fall? What color? Does it flower? What kind of seeds does it produce? The more information the more likely we can identify the tree.

It's always easier to cut the foliage in the fall. The foliage is firmer and easier to cut and we gardeners are in gardening shape in fall, not so much in spring. Not to mention the aging factor. Here's a link to an article Janet and I wrote about compost and mulch: https://gardenatoz.org/whats-up/ensemble-editions/spring/what%27s-up-141-compost,-mulch,-pruning-roses,-rose-problems/ We usually use a slow release organic fertilizer in the perennial beds we maintain.

Here's some of the flowers in bloom one day in a garden. Creeping mint (Meehania cordata) Peony (Paeonia hybrid) Perennial gladiolas (Gladiolus spp.) Lupine (Lupinus spp.) Iris (Iris ssp.) and catmint (Nepeta) Golden ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius 'Dart's Gold') White camassia (Camassia leichtlinii) Thyme (Thymus ssp.) Perennial geraniums (Geranium ssp.)

Recently I've been able to get some really nice bird photos. Some of them follow. This swan was blowing bubbles. Saw this female redwing blackbird staying close and going in and out of a pond area with a very small willow tree. She got quite close to me and preened herself. She's a beauty. Took awhile to find this very young redwing blackbird in a small willow. Do you see it? Always keep your eyes and ears open something maybe there that you're missing. After focusing on just the baby redwing, I finally heard a second chick squeak. Watched redwing black birds feed their young for quite awhile to get this photo of Mom feeding a youngster. Dad didn't like it when you got too close and often told you so by swooping and chirping at you. Mama goose and her babies. Saw this mallard in a garden. She let me get very close and photograph her. There maybe eggs but I didn't see any. These ducklings seem to need their own space. Stay away Mom we're ok. A great blue heron is a serious hunter they can stalk and move very slowly to stab and grab very quickly.

There also looks to be a difference in fall color with 'Grace' getting the wider range of colors from yellow to orange to red, while 'Royal Purple' getting a deep red/purple color. Either should do fine in the Detroit area.

I wouldn't do a "ring" of anything around the tree, you will be digging in the entire root system of the trees and could damage some roots. How many hours of sunlight does the area get? Deep shade is 2 hours or less. There are some perennials that are tall and have a look somewhat like a tall grass. One is Fairy Candle (Cimicifuga). Below is Cimicifuga ramosa with an astible (Astilbe x arendsii) which blooms in July. Cimicifuga simplex and C. racemosa are later blooming types to look into. Ooops forgot all the Cimicifugas are now listed as Actaea, but most people still know them as cimicifuga. Another tall plant that may work is goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus) below.

You can keep that hemlock at whatever height you desire with proper pruning. Here's a link to an article we wrote about keeping trees and shrubs small: https://gardenatoz.org/whats-up/this-week-in-our-gardens/dwarfs-cut-to-size/prune-to-keep-a-tree-small/keep-tree-small-unabridged/

Microbiota though only 12 or so inches tall it does spread as wide as you let it. It wouldn't work in D.A.'s area because it prefers moist, well drained soil and is only tolerant of some shade. Thinking about something for that site but so far...

The caterpillar is probably a Olethreutes ferriferana that feeds on hydrangeas. It is a rather uncommon moth for this area and really does little damage to the plant just disfigures some leaves. You can raise one and see what type of moth it becomes. We haven't seen any leaf tiers on hydrangeas, but now will start looking.

Sorry we didn't get to this earlier. It doesn't look like an "Emerald Gaiety" euonymus because the leaves aren't variegated. If the plant was supposed to be variegated the straight green Euonymus fortunei has taken over. The spots on the leaves appear to be a scorching which is usually caused by a watering issue, either too little or too much water. How is the drainage in that location?

We wait for the soil temperature to be around 60 degrees before planting Cannas. Look for the warm season weeds like purslane and crabgrass to germinate then you'll know the soil temp is ok for planting. You could stagger planting them, do some now and some later. Yes a frost can and probably will hurt the plant but you can cover them with some type of protection like we wrote about this week: https://gardenatoz.org/whats-up/main-features-of-the-season/frost-protection/

We've been cutting back butterfly bush (Buddleia) to the ground (for over 30 years) at all different times in the spring (and fall for some) and have never lost one due to the timing of the pruning. I don't think yours will be effected. If a butterfly bush dies in spring it's almost always because of chronic drainage problems that incite root rot. Root rot is very evident when you take it out. If you're concerned during a frost you can cover it with some type of protection like we just wrote about this week. Here's the link to the article: https://gardenatoz.org/whats-up/main-features-of-the-season/frost-protection/ If the person who recommended delaying the pruning has any knowledge of scientific trials can you ask them to give us a referral? We've looked and haven't found anything, so we fall back on having seen this species leaf out in every warm spell in winter getting killed back multiple times yet surviving.

It almost sounds like there is a problem with the plant or two different plants. Could you post a photo of the boxwood for us to see?