Madcitysal

You are correct that the side of the tree with the yellow paint is not facing south. It's facing northeast. Someday you must tell me how you figured out that it was not facing south! I had applied generous amounts of compost in this bed before I read your warning about mulches around trees. Perhaps that's why it looks too deep. I would LOVE to set up a "Garden by Janet & Steven" session in my garden to talk about how to rehabilitate the tree. I live in Madison, WI, and I know you come here sometimes. Readers, if you're interested and live in southern Wisconsin, please let us know.

Maybe I should have an aborist look at the tree to evaluate it. Thanks for the link to posting photos.

The black tube is a soaker hose. The landscaper planted the tree, so I don't know if it was balled & burlapped, but I trust him. I think the indentation is an optical illusion. The red line on the right side of the trunk is a small shoot. Right below that, you'll see a small knob. I think that might be part of the flare of the tree, but I only saw that one piece IF it is a flare. Sorry the photos aren't better. It's the first time I've posted a photo. Thanks

Here are two areas which have a split bark. Note lines: one is a long split, the other is round and rough.

I've attached a photo of the trunk near the base of the tree. Ignore the yellow mark---it's a paint mark which the grower added for some reason. The circumference of the tree is only 1 to 1.5 inches. It looks much larger in the picture. Until today I hadn't noticed that the the bark is split (outer layer is off) on the trunk in several places as well as on the small branches of the twigs. I'm having difficulty uploading these other photos. Thanks for any ideas you might have.

Three years ago I planted a small Korean Pear Tree in my perennial bed.. Then a year later, I planted Anemone Sylvestris in a circle around the base of the tree. As I read Janet's articles about tree roots, I'm wondering if the anemone was a mistake even though it's a very pretty plant and is doing well. The tree is surviving but not making tremendous growth even though the location is sunny, the soil is good, and I've watered during the dry summer.

Thank you, Janet for a very sensible approach. I have always used slow release fertilizer at planting time, but then used full strength liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Not necessary & perhaps contributing to excess phosphorous and nitrogen in our water systems as you stated.. Appreciate your explanation of the advantages to spreading out the two week allotment too.

In an article on mildew in Impatiens, Janet suggested using soilless potting mixture, and adding soluble blue fertilizer (eg. Miracle Grow) at half strength every 2 weeks. I always apply full strength to my pots every two weeks. Next year, should I use it in a more dilute form?

I am trying Early Goliath this year. Several of my friends rave about this one.

We add about 100 orange peels to our compost pile each month (squeeze fresh OJ). Someone said not to add the peels to my compost because worms don't like citrus. Is there any validity to this claim?